Kate Wilkinson

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My designs are highly decorative, joyous, celebratory and exotic. Often mimicking items previously made of fur such as collars, cuffs and wraps, however through a continuing effort to redefine the necklace I tend to concentrate on the thought provoking and challenging erotic neck region. I make three dimensional chokers and necklaces that have nostalgic qualities but are strikingly of the moment; framing the face they bring delight to both wearer and onlooker alike.

I have always been interested in elaborate adornment and draw on many visual sources, historical, contemporary and cultural. An eclectic mixture of renaissance clothing, African tribal jewellery, Japanese printed textiles, and twenties and thirties European fashion drawings and more recently the flower paintings of Georgia O’Keefe have especially inspired me.

By employing a variety of contrasting but complimentary materials and an array of traditional and current techniques I try to make pieces that are deceptively lightweight and therefore relatively easy to wear. However due to the scale of some of the pieces and the psychological effect of wearing such a necklace the wearer inevitably holds their head upright and walks tall. The jewels are about empowering a strong sense of modern femininity, involving contradicting ideas of restriction, liberation, seduction and protection. The object itself can be seen as a piece of artwork that comes to life once on the body.

I like to use a series of repeated units in my work, these are either tin-plate triangles and squares, created through a series of folded discs, embossed with intricate patterns in gold or silver leaf and finished with a glossy protective enamel. Sometimes I use a variety of small elements of silver curved tubing which can be oxidised or gold plated. The Aurora collection is made up of corrugated silver rectangles which encase a reflective film covered with a dyed textured plastic.  These hard edged structured elements are softened by the sinuous lines of curled dyed nylon wire, elegant feathers, delicate and sumptuous velvet flowers and sparkling Swarovski glass crystals and sequins that hover and dance around the face; movement is essential, appearing spontaneous but is however considered and controlled. Individually the units can make a small pair of earrings, collectively up to a full-length stole, but more often a decorative neckpiece with a sense of occasion.

The use of colour is also a key element, allowing for the seasonal changes of the ever fickle but exciting fashion industry and special individual commissions. Colour changes the mood of a piece, classic, dramatic and timeless in black, fresh and bridal in white and crystal, calm, ethereal and elegant silver-grey or fun and passionate in hot pink and scarlet.

These necklaces offer the ideal solution to dressing up that faithful frock or adding a touch of glamour to T-shirt and jeans! Despite underlying concepts inherent to the work, the essence is beautiful objects as wearable jewellery that continue to charm and intrigue.

 

Kate Wilkinson, 2002.